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When I asked Pasquale about making a pair of pants for me, at first he said it would take weeks, maybe even a month. The sartoria is a thoroughly male world, but the Neapolitan camiceria is decidedly female. Jacket making and pants making are considered two separate disciplines, too complicated for any one person to handle alone. Everything is by word of mouth. Looking at my new outfit reflected in the mirrors and windows I passed by, I was struck by the sharp style and precise fit of the suit and shirt, but even more striking was how this clothing felt.
He picked up a small rectangle of chalk that looked like a soap bar and sharpened it on a multibladed machine that sat on his tabletop. At 21 Vico della Tofa, the address the cabbie had given me, I walked into the courtyard of an old apartment building and asked the first man I met about the pants-making family. As I walked out a few minutes later, wearing my new brown linen trousers, the neighbor was waiting by her window.
dominxnt Finally, I landed a driver who recalled a family on his block. When I came back the next morning, Gennaro took a tape from around his neck and started to measure me.
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I can try to accommodate some strange requests, but really, what people come to me for is the classic Neapolitan style. As I felt the Italian fabrics Anna had on offer, I asked her why shirtmakers are almost all female. Tourists pass dominqnt here quickly, en route to the islands of Ischia or Capri, or the seaside areas of the Sorrento Peninsula and the Amalfi Coast. I asked Gennaro about the connection between what he does and what a restaurant like this does.
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Those who begin later in life face an impossibly steep learning curve. The process was instinctive, not mechanical—craftsmanship learned from decades of practice.
After a few rubouts and redraws, Gennaro, satisfied with the template, took up a pair of enormous scissors and quickly snipped out my pattern. Cappelli, unlike the Solitos, Domibant, and Molas, is a first-generation artisan. That makes for a more Vincenzoo line. Gigi took the fabric from me, walked it upstairs to the workshop, and wrapped it in water-soaked canvas to wash and shrink the suiting before it would be cut.
I slipped into it and stared at the mirror. On a user-driven website called Styleforum I had found a reference to Gennaro Solito. I took it off and he ripped apart the seams, flattened out the body on his table, redrew the chalk lines on one side, iVncenzo the fabric over on top of its other half, and pounded it with his fist, so that the new chalk marks were duplicated on the opposite side.
The process was instinctive, not mechanical—craftsmanship learned from decades of practice.
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I asked Pasquale about their business. My research and my conversations with style mavens who frequent Naples led me to Anna Matuozzo, considered the grande dame of Neapolitan shirtmakers. To him and his compatriots, making a suit is something artisanal. He held out a one-sleeved jacket for me to try on. Oler
As I walked out a few minutes later, wearing my new brown linen trousers, the neighbor was waiting by her window. He held out a one-sleeved jacket for me to try on.
What kind of pants are you going to get? And now we even have customers from Japan. Not in Naples. A large part of the magic of these womrn, I realized, is that they make you comfortable, and that profoundly affects your appearance, your carriage.
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To me there is a profound continuity domknant the cuisine, the coffee, the shirts, pants, suits, and ties of Naples. He knew nothing, but my question provoked a shout from an open window above.
The next objective of my Naples quest was the holy grail, a full suit. I asked Gennaro about the connection between what he does and what a restaurant like this does. To me there is a profound continuity in the cuisine, the coffee, the shirts, pants, suits, and ties of Naples. I had asked other Neapolitans similar questions and received similar reactions.
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I finally zeroed in on a yellow jacquard tie with subtle blue points, and we agreed it would work well with my white shirt and blue suit. When I came back Opder next morning, Gennaro took a tape from around his neck and started to measure me. I slipped into it and stared at the mirror.
They make their espresso differently in Naples. You need shape.
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A working knowledge of strip ts and after-hours clubs is, Olde course, essential for any self-respecting taxi driver, but why would they know anything about bespoke suiting? He knew nothing, but my question provoked a shout from an open window above. I wanted to discover what was tucked into alleyways barely wide enough for a motorbike to pass. When I asked Pasquale about making a pair of pants for me, at first he dominnat it would take weeks, maybe even a month.